Warsaw had us at hello (or rather at cześć)

August 27, 2014  •  3 Comments

Witamy w Warszawie!

We arrived in Warsaw on Sunday, August 3rd. Coming from my hometown in southeast Poland, it was a 7.5 hour bus ride (via Neo Bus), which cost approximately $48 for the both of us. Thankfully, the bus was comfortable and equipped with WIFI so the hours passed by quickly as we were able to browse the web and listen to podcasts. With temperatures in high 80s, it was still hot out when we arrived in Warsaw in the evening. As was the case for most of our trip thus far, we booked an Airbnb studio apartment in a central part of Warsaw but with what we soon learned would be a pretty uncomfortable bed. Our first order of business in Warsaw? Meeting up with Damian, our friend Ewa's boyfriend, who currently lives and works there.

From our apartment, the walk to Warsaw's Old Town was less than fifteen minutes. When we got there, we were instantly smitten by the colorful streets and overall style of architecture. But it wasn't until we reached Castle Square (Plac Zamkowy) that our jaws truly dropped. The colorful townhouses surrounding Sigimund's Column (Columna Zygmunta) were beautifully highlighted by the setting sun, and the sky itself was illuminated with deep hues of pinks, yellows and oranges. It was a truly breathtaking sight. Locals and tourists alike were strolling through the square, sipping drinks at cafes, enjoying ice cream, and admiring the surroundings. It was such a lovely evening. Looking around, we could hardly imagine that during WWII, all these beautiful buildings surrounding us were destroyed by the Nazis, in their sadly successful efforts to level the entire city and kill of the population. Warsaw was later rebuilt, and made to look as close to the original as possible. What an effort it must have been for the Polish people. I strongly urge you to watch this short clip which shows the extent of the destruction in Warsaw. Humbling. Also, there will be a separate post coming in the next few days about this subject. 

In Warsaw, you are constantly reminded of the city's and all of Poland's painful past. It's only been about 70 years since the most heinous and heartbreaking events took place on Poland's soil. September 1, 1939 is a date known to every Pole. It marks the date that Germany invaded Poland, marking the official beginning of the most widespread world war, involving 30 countries, and resulting in an estimated 50 to 85 million fatalities. Growing up in Poland we learned about the war in almost every class; history, geography, Polish etc. It was still a very fresh subject, close to our young hearts, but also one that was depressing for young kids. I never liked reading any of our assigned war novels, as they always made me sad or cry (most often both). Now, as an adult, I wish I remembered more as I am able to understand the massive importance and impact of the war in the world's history. This trip to Warsaw helped me refresh my memory.  

Warsaw is a walking city, and we would stroll for hours at a time. When we finally got too tired, we hopped on the tram or stopped at one of the many super cute/hip cafes of bars. Warsaw was a pleasant surprise for the both of us. A lot of times people rank Krakow way above Warsaw - and we actually feel it's the other way around! Warsaw, the capital of Poland, is a metropolis that rivals any other big, European city. It mixes old and new so well, and offers a true city life, rich in deeply rooted culture. Plus, the arts and music scenes are evident everywhere you go.

We spent a total of 4 days in Warsaw, which was just the right amount of time to sight see and relax. Finally, we were able to satisfy our spoiled palettes and have delicious Thai AND Indian for the first time since we embarked on this journey in early July. As much as we love polish food, we were missing the spice and crunch of our other favorite cuisines! Warsaw was able to satisfy our cravings.

We highly recommend visiting Warsaw while it still is not overcrowded with tourists. Given the right (read: high paying job) I would absolutely entertain the thought of living in Warsaw. So if you're planning your Euro trip, add Warsaw to your itinerary and you will not regret it.  

As always, here are some basic facts about Warsaw as well as photos we took. 

Geography: Warsaw is situated somewhat centrally in Poland on the Vistula River (Wisla) 

Population:  About 38 million in Poland; 1.7 million in Warsaw making it the most populated city in the country and ninth largest in the European Union.  

Best Known for: Poland's capital and largest city, completely destroyed by Nazis during WWII, Palace of Culture and Science, Warsaw Mermaid, Chopin Statue, Lazienki Park, Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. 

What We Noticed: Again, it's hard for me to be impartial as many Polish things are known and normal to me, but some of the things we've noticed are: constant reminders of the war, variety of neighborhoods, beautiful squares, mix of modern and old, clean subways, expansive tram system, international scene, stylish young people, trendy bars and restaurants, old ladies selling fresh flowers on street corners. 

For more photos of Warsaw, check out the Gallery page.  

Warsaw crowds. Hello Warsaw. Hello Warsaw. Warsaw boasts a solid international mix, with many foreigners not only coming to visit but also working and living there. On the left of the Asian (or maybe Polish!) gentleman, you see the Entrance to the Castle Square with Royal Castle (Zamek Krolewski).

Caste Square in Warsaw looked beautiful in the setting sun. Can you believe that all of those buildings were rebuilt after the city was completely destroyed in WW? Castle SquareCastle Square Hello Warsaw! This is Castle Square (Plac Zamkowy). Overlooking the square, you can see Sigimund's Column (Kolumna Zygmunta), erected in 1644, to commemorate King Sigimund III Vasa who in 1596 moved the capital of Poland from Krakow to Warsaw.  In September of 1944, during the Warsaw Uprising, the monument was badly damaged by the Germans. It was repaired and re-erected after the war. Go Poland!!!

Unfortunately for us there were no soccer matches taking place at the National Stadium in Warsaw during our stay there. National Stadium in Warsaw. National Stadium in Warsaw. The National Stadium (Stadion Narodowy) as seen from the Old Town. Built between 2008 and 2011, it seats over 58,000  and is mostly used for football (no, not that football, SOCCER) matches (although if you seriously thought that Polish people play American football you have a lot of learning to do about Poland!)

In the evening, Old Town in Warsaw is full of life. There's lots of cute outdoor cafes where you can sip local beer and wine. Warsaw's Old Town in the evening. Old Town in the evening.   While in the Castle Square we came across a demonstration supporting Ukraine and paying respect to the victims of the recent terrorist attack on plane MH17 in Ukraine. 

Meeting old friendsMeeting old friends This world is indeed a small place; we met up for drinks with Damian on our first night in Warsaw! He was also kind enough to let us crash with him on our last day in Warsaw, after our 2 day trip to Gdansk. 

Aside from grabbing some drinks you can also get some local art work at the Warsaw's Starowka. Warsaw's Starowka.Warsaw's Starowka. Standing in the center of Warsaw's Old Town (Starowka). You can see the Warsaw Siren in behind me. 

Warsaw Siren (Warszawska Syrenka) is a well known symbol of the city. She does not like to wear a bra. Warsaw Siren. Warsaw Siren.

The Warsaw Siren (Warszawska Syrenka) is a symbol of Warsaw. It relates to one of old legends in which fishermen on the Vistula River were guided to safety by this mythical creature. 

Multimedia Fountain Park was a lot of fun. It was so refreshing to dip our feet in it after a long morning of sight seeing. Multimedia Fountain Park. At the Multimedia Fountain Park (Multimedialny Park Fontann) where tourists and dwellers may not only dip their feet but also sunbathe in their bathing suits. We've seen quite a few of them do it. Imagine men in speedos tanning in the middle of the city - kinda funny. 

You can spot skimpy dressed sunbathers at the Multimedia Fountain Park. It's a pretty entertaining sight for a middle of the city. Sunbathers at the Multimedia Fountain Park Sunbathers at the Multimedia Fountain Park Actually you don't need to imagine them - here is a photo for your viewing pleasure! We call this shot "Speedos in the City". 

We wrapped up our first day of sightseeing by visiting the area surrounding the Palace of Culture and Science (Palac Kultury i Nauki). It is the tallest building in Warsaw and one that's controversial as it was an unwanted gift from Joseph Stalin and the Soviet Union, as part of his communist propaganda. Construction began in 1952, not even a decade after the war ended and at a time when Russia had control of Poland. The Palace was almost destroyed in 1989 when the Berlin Wall came down as many Poles deemed it to be a symbol of repression and Soviet domination over Warsaw.      The Palace of Culture and Science at night. The Palace of Culture and Science. The Palace of Culture and Science illuminated at night. 

Savior Square (Plac Zbawiciela) with the Church of the Holiest Savior (Kosciol Najswietszego Zbawiciela) and a controversial artificial flower rainbow (tecza) which is a representation of support of LGBT people. It was constructed in 2012 and has been vandalized several times, most recently two days after this photo was taken when it was set on fire. The square is also referred to as Hipster Square (Plac Hipstera) as its trendy bars and lounges are very popular with young people. We actually ended up going there for the most delicious ice cream and outdoor drinks with Damian during our last night out in Warsaw.    Known to every Polish person, Chopin Statue graces the famous Lazienki Park in the capital of Poland. Chopin statue at the Lazienki Park. Chopin statue at the Lazienki Park, known to every Pole. 

Even though under renovations, Palace on the Isle is a beautiful building. Palace on the Isle. Palace on the Isle (Palac Na Wyspie) in Lazienki Park - a Baroque building, dating back to the 17th century.  Myslewicki Palace in Lazienki Park. This was one of the few luckier buildings in Warsaw that suffered only minor damage during WWII. 

Croque Madame was one of our favorite cafes in Warsaw. We did some people watching while drinking delicious coffee stuffing our faces with tasty cake.Croque MadameCroque Madame

Coffee break in Croque Madame in Saska Kepa neighborhood / Vlad looking like a bawse!!! Their pastries looked soooo appetizing and we could not resist the delicious Klementynka (on the right). However, prices are quite steep for Poland and even when converted to dollars some cake slices (not pictured here) are quite pricey (24 zloty = $8).  Trams were a very reliable form of transportation. We were able to navigate them without any problems. Warsaw trams. City traffic near the Palace of Culture and Science. Trams (seen in the bottom right) are a popular and reliable mode of transportation in Warsaw. 

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (Grob Nieznanego Zolnierza) is a monument in honor of unknown soldiers who gave their lives to fight for Poland during WWI. It was completely destroyed after the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, and like most of Warsaw, was later rebuilt. Soil from almost 40 battlegrounds was added to the tomb to commemorate all those that died fighting against the enemy. An eternal flame burns at the monument and the guard changes it every hour.  This garden is right behind the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We loved how manicured it was. Ogrod Saski. Behind the Tomb lies the Saski Garden (Ogrod Saski) filled with beautiful flowers.  People watching at the Saski Garden (Ogrod Saski). 

Maybe they're going on a date? A date?Handsome polish couple. We both enjoy people watching in foreign cities as it gives us a glimpse of what every day life looks like in a given place. Here's a couple who probably met up after work for a date. Wonder if she has flats in her purse...  Couple that sight-sees together, stays together. Boy & Girl sight seeing. And here is a couple who loves to sight see together! Just like Vladdy and I :P Nuns like to sight see too. Nuns walking in Warsaw.  Nuns also like to sight see.  And shop for jewelry! After all, every woman loves some bling.  A view of the Castle Square from an observatory terrace.    Caste Square looks beautiful from the observational deck. Castle Square from the air. Castle Square from the air.  Find Waldo (or Vladdy)! He's probably listening to a Joe Rogan or FATK podcast. 

Warsaw metro was clean and spacious. Which is sort of the opposite of the studio we rented - a bit dusty and small. It was a total bachelor pad.


Comments

Kasia(non-registered)
Gabu here you'll find the answer: http://www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl/Historia-135.html

and here you have the most important quote:
"(...)Tylman z Gameren, architekt pracujący dla marszałka, zaprojektował i wzniósł pawilon zwany Ermitażem. Dziś budynek ten stoi poza parkiem łazienkowskim, w pobliżu pomnika Jana III Sobieskiego. Drugi pawilon dla marszałka Tylman wystawił na południe od Ermitażu. Zwano go Łaźnią lub Hippokrene (nazwa źródła w mitologii greckiej). Stanął na wyspie otoczonej wodami kanałów. Od jego nazwy Łazienkami zaczęto określać cały zespół parkowo-architektoniczny".
Gabu(non-registered)
Warsaw looks very pretty in the summer. When I was there in the winter, they had a big christmas tree in the middle of Castle Square and were selling hot mulled wine + oscypek. I guess it's coffee and ice cream this time of year. And probably zapiekanki :P

What I really want to know is why is the park called Lazienki park? Translated to English, it means "bathroom park". This seems silly. I demand an answer!
Ewa(non-registered)
Aww amazing!
I love Warsaw too :)
Can't wait to see the next posts!
xoxo
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